Iris Rev. 3-5
Last updated
Last updated
This build guide is exclusively for Rev. 3-5 of the Iris, which features pre-soldered components. For Rev. 2 PCBs, see .
This guide can also be used for the Nyquist Rev. 3, as it has a very similar construction.
Here's a list of parts needed for the build:
Interconnect Cable:
1 (For Rev. 3 or 4)
1 (For Rev. 5 or 6)
54-56 switches (MX-compatible and Alps switches are supported)
Optional parts (not shown)
if using 2u keys
and
Prepare components
Optional additions!
Add switches
Optional additions! Part 2
Solder in-switch LEDs
Assemble!
Re-Program Board Note
Rejoice!
Have your soldering iron, solder and, if you feel accident prone with your soldering (it's ok! Happens to the best of us!), a solder sucker.
Get a playlist of some jams you like and get started!
These items are optional additions, but if you do want them included in your board, the time to act is now.
If you are using acrylic plates, you may want to add something in between the bottom side of the plate and the top of the PCB. This prevents the plate from shifting around, since for a 3mm plate, the switches are unable to clip in.
Assembly Option!
You have a keyboard! Savor this moment of victorious keyboard construction.
Solder (optional)
Solder in-switch (optional)
Add to
Some individuals may want to lubricate their switches. If you'd like to, go ahead and do that now before starting the process. For further details on that, go .
Add the 2u stabilizer if desired. Do this before installing the switch plate and switches:
If adding a rotary encoder, clip the two larger mounting pins on the encoder so it can fit onto the PCB:
Next, add a small piece of electrical tape to cover up the clipped off pins:
Install the encoder onto the PCB:
Solder the encoder onto the PCB:
Here, rolled up pieces of electrical tape is being added to the bottom of the plate before being placed onto the PCB:
:::note FOR KALIH BOX AND KAILH CHOC SWITCHES - INSTALL LEDS BEFORE THIS STEP For Kailh Box and Kailh Choc switches, there is no cutout to insert in-switch LEDs through, so the LEDs must be added first. Skip to the and then come back to this step of switch installation. :::
Add switches into the switch plate. It's a good idea to add switches to the corners first and then solder them before installing the rest of them:
Fit the switches and plate onto the PCB:
Solder the switches onto the PCB:
Add the rest of the switches:
Solder the rest of the switches onto the PCB:
Polarity of the in-switch LEDs is important. Match up the longer leg of the LED to the + sign of the LED pins on the PCB:
Insert the LED through the switch and PCB:
Double check that the longer leg matches with the + sign:
Bend the LED legs out so it doesn't fall out while soldering the LED in:
Solder the LED legs and then clip the excess length on the legs:
Insert a screw through the top of the switch plate and attach a standoff from the bottom side of the plate:
Repeat the process for the rest of the plate:
If you have an acrylic middle layer, insert it now around the standoffs:
Put the bottom plate on and add screws:
If you have an acrylic middle layer with tenting holes, here's a video on how to add bolts to it:
If you have a 3D-printed middle layer, see this page on installing it:
Here's the default keymap if you need it:
Oh, looking to re-program your board? Never fear! Come look .
Care for build adventure?
